Laminate Flooring DIY Installation Guide

Engineered Wood Flooring DIY Installation Guide

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Warranty Note

We highly recommend using an FID box* as our warranty on the engineered product’s validity is based on optimal environmental conditions.


What is a FID box?


A Flooring Installation Detector (FID) box is a device that measures the moisture content of wood floors and the surrounding environment to ensure that conditions are suitable for the installation of wood flooring.


The FID box typically contains sensors that measure temperature and relative humidity levels, which are important factors in determining the moisture content of the wood. The device may also have a built-in moisture meter that can be used to take direct readings of the wood’s moisture content. By monitoring the temperature, humidity, and moisture levels, the FID box can help ensure that the wood flooring is installed under optimal conditions to prevent issues such as buckling, warping, or cupping of the wood. This can help ensure a successful installation and a long-lasting, high-quality wood floor.


Hardwood flooring is a beautiful and unique product of nature, which is characterized by distinctive variations in grain and colours. These natural variations in color and grain are not flaws, but are a part of the natural beauty and uniqueness of hardwood flooring. These inherent variations should be expected and serve to enhance the natural beauty and enduring charm.


Our flooring are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.

It is necessary that the flooring to be laid is left to acclimatise in the packaging (at room temperature) for at least 48-72 hours, lie horizontal and flat – at the ideal relative humidity level of 45%.


The room should be dry, if the building is a new building with a concrete floor, wait until the floor is completely dry (Please check the drying time information with the supplier if not sure about it). The flooring should be laid at a minimum room temperature of 15ºC and a maximum of 22ºC.


The greatest possible care is taken to produce your floor. However, we advise you to check the boards for visible defects such as damage, deviations in shape or dimensions. No complaints regarding these visible defects will be considered after the boards have been laid. Make sure you have good lighting while laying the floor.

Engineered Wood Flooring DIY


The consumer and installer assume all responsibility for the final inspection of product quality. If the flooring is not acceptable, contact your dealer immediately.

Before beginning the installation of any hardwood flooring product, the installer must determine that the environment of the job site and the condition and type of the subfloor involved are acceptable, ensuring that it meets or exceeds all requirements which are stipulated in the installation instructions which follow. We decline any responsibility for job failure resulting from or associated with inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloor or job site environment deficiencies.

Prior to installation, the installer/owner has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture, and factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with deficiencies.

The use of stain, filler, or putty sticks for the correction of defects during installation should be accepted as a normal procedure.

Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture, or factory finish, the installer should not use the piece.

When our hardwood flooring is ordered, a 5 % allowance factor, depending on the layout, must be added to the actual square footage amount needed. (Diagonal installations and/or board width of 5″ and over may require up to a 10 % allowance factor.)

Please note that our engineered floors must be installed in environments of 40% to 55% relative humidity and temperature 15-22 ºC to prevent possible damage not covered by warranty. Installation of a humidifier or dehumidifier may be necessary. The floor is designed to perform in an environmentally controlled structure. Warranty exclusions are, but are not limited to, surface checking resulting from low humidity, mildew, or discoloration resulting from extreme sub-floor moisture.



All woodfloors4u floors must be installed by a competent installer who will have the necessary skills and take individual site circumstances into account.


Woodfloors4u warranty will apply only to floors that have been installed by a competent flooring installer comparable to BS8201 in the UK or equivalent standards worldwide. Moisture tests of areas including the subfloor will be required for warranty.

Our engineer flooring can be laid over a variety of surfaces (concrete, plywood) and even over existing-level wooden floorboards. Subfloor must be dry, level and with good load-bearing properties. The moisture content of the subfloor should be 9% (with a tolerance of 2%). You should first check that there are no loose pieces, should any be found, these need to be screwed down.

If the base is concrete, its humidity should be less than 3% and the mortar should be evenly set. If the floor is to be laid in a new building, the rooms should be enclosed with the windows closed. All “wet” trades should be finished and the relative humidity in the premises should be between 40% and 55% – the humidity of the plasterworks and paintwork should be less than 5%.

Our engineer flooring is generally compatible with the most common water-based under floor heating systems (check with your supplier for further details). Engineered Wood Flooring DIY
> Start with a clean, level floor which has the appropriate humidity for installation. To improve sound insulation and enhance walking comfort, a foam underlay should be laid at right angles to the direction of the floor being laid.

>If laying over a concrete base, it is recommended that a polythene membrane* (Must be damp proved) is laid first and the moisture content of the concrete must measure no more than 8-10%. *only applicable to floated floor installations

>For best effect, boards should be laid lengthwise pointing towards the incoming light (e.g. from a window). Plan to lay the first two rows of boards from left to right, grooved edge to the wall, with spacers between boards and the wall as well as both ends of each row. Allow for a minimum of 14mm Expansion gap around the outside of the room. 7.5 M is the maximum width one piece floor. If the wood goes wider than 7.5M , the extra expansion gap should be applied for all sides.

>If the wall is not straight or is uneven, scribe and cut the boards to the contour of the wall. To complete the first row, measure the length of the last board (including the spacer) and saw to size.

>If the off cut from this board is 40cm or more it should be used to begin the next row – if you do not have an off cut begin the next row by cutting a new board into two uneven lengths and use one to start the second row.

>Use a plumb line to ensure that both rows are straight – when satisfied proceed to glue.

>Apply PVA adhesive to the tongue and end butts – it is important to use adequate adhesive. Using the tapping block and/or pull iron, press the joints together – allow the first two rows to settle and adhesive to dry before proceeding further.

>The rest of the floor can now be glued and laid.

>Ensure that the boards are all laid straight and even, leaving spacers at all edges (these will later be removed and the space created covered by skirting and/or beading).

>It is usual for there not to be space to fit a full width board at the last row so it will be necessary to make a longitudinal cut – the cutting of this last board may be helped by simply using another board as a scribe and cutting guide.

>Press the last board into place with the pull iron remembering to put a spacer between the board and the wall.

>Allow 12 hours for the glue to set. Remove all spacers to leave the expansion free.

>The skirting board which covers thexpansion space and gives the finishing touch to the installation, can now be fixed in place (to the wall only and not to the floor) Engineered Wood Flooring DIY

Our engineer flooring can be glued directly to the chosen substrate. The preparation of the subfloor should be the same as above.

A suitable flooring adhesive must be used and advice taken from your supplier. When choosing a full glue down method there is no need to glue the tongues of the boards with PVA.

It is recommended that a flexible adhesive is used as this will reduce the stresses transferred to the subfloor by the natural movement of the timber floor.

Please seek professional advice before proceeding with this installation method as it is difficult to rectify any problems once the flooring has been laid.


Where the subfloor is of wooden construction (plywood, floorboards) Our engineer flooring can be nailed directly to the subfloor. A suitable length flooring nail must be used in conjunction with a manual flooring nail gun. Please refer to the operating instructions of the chosen nailing apparatus for advice.